5/23/2007

If you are a regular reader of my blog, you would expect me to say something about my stay at Ak.saram since I mentioned about it in my last log. First of all, it was a fortunate situation because Bangalore is one of the coolest Indian cities to be at this point (I don't function well in hot weather, and I have more to say about how to avoid hot Indian summer if you send me a separate email). Secondly, I simply needed to find something to do to fill the gap while I waited for my permit to get into the Sera Monastery. So I came to Ak.saram, the Bangalore branch of Samskrita Bharati (web address given in the last log).

I was there for a month, attended three different kinds of classes and a shibiram (a kind of intensive Sanskrit camp), and I also benefitted from the interaction with the volunteers, all of whom converse in Sanskrit. I was told that the daily one-on-one class that I was given is what Ak.saram would offer to all Sanskrit learners who come to Ak.saram and ask for it. During this class the instructor and I went through the first of the four levels of correspondance course (each level consists of about 12 booklets) which the organization has developed. While the grammatical aspects are not new to me at all, the materials (at least what we covered) do contain a very substantial Spoken component. Also helpful were the discussions I had with my instructor on saralasa.msk.rtam, or simple Sanskrit, which the organization promotes. At this point I am not completely clear about the position of Samskrita Bharati in relation to other elements of the Spoken Sanskrit movement, but I get the sense that it is a major force, if not the major force, with nation-wide influence. Nor am I clear as to what other vareities of Spoken Sanskrit there are, although from my limited experience elsewhere I get the sense that something akin to the kind of simple Sanskrit which Samskrita Bharati promotes is used by other Sanskrit speaking people as well. I will have more to say about simple Sanskrit below.

One week after my arrival, a month-long beginning Spoken Sanskrit course for school children also started, which I attended for about two weeks. The grammatical part again moves very slowly and repetitively, but the class was conducted in Sanskrit, which certainly helped. I also sat on the last class of 2nd level weekend course. There a volunteer came and spoke to the students. At that point I only get the sense of what the talk is about, but a fellow in the class told me that average students understand 70-80% of the talk. This really persuaded me to persist in the kids' class. The other thing which spontaneously happened was a class given by a young man. He is perhaps a little less than 20, and was brought up speaking Sanskrit as his mother tongue. The class was requested by a group of MA Sanskrit students who were trying to pass their exams, and it dealt with philosophical and literary texts. The class gives me a chance to get exposed to a kind of learned oral Sanskrit commentary. But it stopped after about 10 days. While in Bangalore I also visited a Sanskrit school in the city and a Sanskrit gurukula in the suburb, both of which however were not in session till the beginning of June. I know there is much more I can explore. I feel that Sanskrit is strong in Karnataka (there is also a Sanskrit village in the state), and given that the state is also a stronghold for Tibetan learning, I don't know if there is any attempt to link the two kinds of resources together.

The best thing I had in Bangalore, however, was a 6-day shibiram which Ak.saram offered toward the end of my stay. This is a sheer coincidence because it was planned to take place elsewhere, but the other venue suddenly had problem with its water supply, and the event had to be moved to Bangalore. During those six days (there are also 10 day ones, and "you can speak Sanskrit in 10 days" is Samskrita Bharati's slogan), everyone in attendance was supposed to speak Sanskrit only, and of coures the day-long classes were all in Sanskrit. The shibiram simply moved my Spoken Sanskrit to the next level. What I particular liked were the talks given by many guest speakers. I am of course not saying that I understood that much, and I feel that my fellow students always understood more than I did, and in my mind this simply has to do with the fact that their native languages are filled with Sanskrit words, and simple Sanskrit might particularly favor that shared vocabulary. I was encouraged by the fact that I understood better the talks which were more scholastic. During some talk I feelt I might have understood as much of 50 % and I had a good sense what was being said. So if you are a Sanskrit student who likes to learn the spoken language, I would certainly recommend that you go to Ak.saram (by the way, Bangalore is where Samskrita Bharati started. I also had good expeience with Samskrita Bharati people from Delhi and Chennai, but those two places are hot in the summer). You should communicate clearly that you want to have the one-on-one class, and by all means schedule your visit so that you can attend one of the shibirams, and besides these two hopefully you will stamble upon something else by accident. There is a three-week Sanskrit course planned for this coming July-August which is specifically designed for English speakers. But having had years of Sanskrit, doing the shibiram with Kanada speaking people worked fine for me. In the shibiram that I attended, there were three levels - beginning, advanced, teacher-training. I was recommended to attend the second one since I had spent some time there before the shibiram started.

The next thing I want to write about is saralasa.mskrita, this is the part you want to skip if Sanskrit or Spoken Sanskrit is not your thing. Why learning Spoken Sanskrit? Perhaps the teacher you want to study with happen to share no other language with you. Or that you want to tap into the resource of Sanskrit panditas who didn't bother to learn English. And if you don't know any other Indian language, this is the chance to experience India through one of its own languages, or rather its best.

A disclaimer: I haven't checked the spellings of Sanskrit words used below.

There is a whole philosophy, and a whole strategy, of Samskrita Bharati that you will learn only by being there and going through their materials. Samskrita Bharati distinguished between saralasa.msk.rta, or simply sanskrit, and saraliik.rtasa.msk.rta, or simplified Sanskrit. Simplified Sanskrit implies changing grammar, e.g. it allows for the forms like pitusya ("father's" instead of pitu.h), and this is what Samskrita Bharati opposes. Simple Sanskrit functions within the bounds of Paninian grammar and recommends the use of simple words, e.g. janaka as apposed to pit.r (father) if the vibhakti forms of the later is too complicated (although I have heard at least the 1st case pitaa used). And simple Sanskrit is supposed to be a means and not the end. Simple Sanskrit occurs both in the substantive and verbal forms. In both cases, the dual forms are not recommended, the simple form encouraged instead is dvayam (a pair), which allows the use of singular in both the substantive and verbal forms concerned, e.g. gurudvayam gacchati. In the substantives, the form ta.h (tas) is recommended to take the place of fifth vibhakti-s (in all numbers). There is also the talk of using k.rte (and artham, according to my observation) to replace fourth case forms, although this seems to be applicable to only limited uses of the fourth case.

I have said that dual forms of the verb is not recommended (the other explanation I heard is that Siddhaantakaumudii (818) provides for the use of plural forms in place of dual ones in the phrases like puna.h milama ("let's meet again") when there are only two persons involved in the conversation). The second person forms also tend to be avoided through the use of the respectful address bhavat and bhavatii, which requires 3rd person verbal forms. (I have heard mothers using 3rd person verbal forms to their babies, which implies the use of respectful address bhavaan or bhavatii). In terms of tenses and moods, in the present tense the present indicative (la.t, e.g. bhavati) is of course used. In the past tense, perfect (li.t) and aorist (lu.ng) are certainly avoided, because li.t is distant past, and lu.ng is simply too complicated (and perfect as well for that matter ). Even the simple past (la.ng, e.g. agacchat) is not recommended. The explanation I was given is that it makes the speaker feel that it is negative because it begins with the augment "a." However, the confusion--if it is a confusion at all--rather appears to me to be a psyological one than a theoretical one. The past form really recommended is the k.rt pratyaya, or what is called past active participle, tavat (e.g. khaaditavaan in 1st person, singular, masculine). The simple past forms of the verb to be (as (e.g. asiit) and bhuu (e.g. abhavat)) are nevertheless used. Of course the the paraphrastic future forms are not recommended, the l.r.t forms like bhavi.syati are used. Two more forms are in common usage. One is imperative (lo.t, e.g. gacchatu) (I have elsewhere heard that the passive aatmanepadin form is recommended because only the third person singular form is needed, but I have heard this only once--diiyataam (used by a respectable man from Delhi)--at Ak.saram, the more common forms I've heard there were the active ones, e.g. dadatu). The other form that is used to some extent in my experience is the optitive (vidhi li.ng, e.g. bhaveyu.h).

In terms of vocabulary, efford is made to use only a particular sense (out of many) of a certain word. The other recommendation is to use the vocabulary which is in common with the vernacular languages. This, for me, is what makes simple Sanskrit so easy to learn for Indians. I also get the sense that usually only one (or very limited number) out of a large number of synonyms that mean the same thing is used. This was confirmed by my instructor in our conversation.

All in all, I feel I got as much as I could have gotten in one month at Ak.saram (I also spent perhaps 7 to 10 days on my project proposal). The volunteers at Ak.saram were friendly and helpful. And it is certainly an honor for any Sanskrit lover to be with people who are so dedicated to the cause of Sanskrit - many of them are full-time or even life-long volunteers who only get their basic expenses covered but nothing else materially.

4/23/2007

I have planned to post updates every month, but this has not happened in the recent couple of months. (By the way, I want to tell the visitors who read English alone that previous series of posts contain pictures of Gaya, Bodhgaya, Rajgir, Nalanda, Vaishali, and Patna, which I visited toward the end of January.)

There were a lot of travels in the past months, but I didn't get much done in my study. From mid-Februrary to early March, I visited my parents in Shanghai. We celebrated the Chinese New Year together, which was the first that I have spent with my parents in the last 11 years, then my mom's 70th birthday. I traveled to Nepal in the last half of May where I got my research visa for India, and now I am offically doing on my research for my dissertation project in India. While in Kathmandu I have taken pitures of the Svayambhu and Boudhnath stupas, but since there are hundreds of pictures of both, I don't need to post any here.

There is also a good news, but since it is only at its incipient stage, I will refrain from writing anything about it till later this year.

The weather in Northern India where I stayed became extremely hot at the beginning of April. After I had a taste of it for ten days, I relocated myself to the pleasant region of Southern Karnataka. My intention is to stay at Sera monastery in Byalakkuppe. But since my permit has not arrived from the Indian government, I in the meanwhile have moved to the city of Bangalore to study Spoken Sanskrit. The place where I am staying is called Ak.saram, this is the Bangalore branch of Samskrita Bharati which has the goal of bring Sanskrit back to the homes of the Indian nation. The monthly Sanskrit magazine sambhaa.sa.nasa.mde'sa is published here. You can visit their website if you want to learn more.

http://www.samskrita-bharati.org/newsite/index.php

2/19/2007


從Vaishali回Patna(這是Bihar邦的省城)本來要去觀看Patna博物館和孔雀(Maurya)王朝的遺跡,但是因為時間不足只得去趕火車,臨走前拍下火車站照片一張。

佛前往雙林時曾經過此處,並預言它會成為一座重要的城市,後來成為孔雀王朝的國都,名為Paa.taliputra,南傳佛教所說的第三次結集便發生在此。《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0910c15(00)║殑伽河南有故城。周七十餘里。
T51n2087_p0910c16(04)║荒蕪雖久基址尚在。昔者人壽無量歲時。
T51n2087_p0910c17(04)║號拘蘇摩補羅城(唐言香花宮城)。王宮多花故以名焉。
T51n2087_p0910c18(03)║逮乎人壽數千歲。更名波吒釐子城(舊曰巴連弗邑訛也)……

《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0911a17(11)║……自爾之後因名波吒釐子城焉
T51n2087_p0911a18(00)║王故宮北有石柱。高數十尺。
T51n2087_p0911a19(06)║是無憂王作地獄處。釋迦如來涅槃之後。
T51n2087_p0911a20(07)║第一百年有阿輸迦(唐言無憂舊曰阿育訛也)王者。頻毘婆羅(唐言影堅。舊曰頻婆娑訛也)
T51n2087_p0911a21(00)║王之曾孫也。自王舍城遷都波吒釐。
T51n2087_p0911a22(02)║築外郭周於故城。年代浸遠唯餘故基。
T51n2087_p0911a23(02)║伽藍天祠及窣堵波。餘址數百存者二三。
T51n2087_p0911a24(02)║唯故宮北臨殑伽河。小城中有千餘家……
這個水池被認作是Abhiseka Puskarini,吠舍釐王登位灌頂時使用水池,對岸是日本人建的佛塔。去Vaishali的路上沒有見到藏人(雖然他們知道yangs pa can,並且有些藏人肯定去過),但是南傳的僧人卻在那裡建有寺院。

《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0908b15(01)║其西北有窣堵波。無憂王之所建也。
T51n2087_p0908b16(03)║傍有石柱。高五六十尺。上作師子之像。
T51n2087_p0908b17(04)║石柱南有池。是群獼猴為佛穿也。
T51n2087_p0908b18(07)║在昔如來曾住於此。池西不遠有窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0908b19(06)║諸獼猴持如來缽上樹取蜜之處。池南不遠有窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0908b20(01)║是諸獼猴奉佛蜜處。
T51n2087_p0908b21(09)║池西北隅猶有獼猴形像
T51n2087_p0908b22(00)║伽藍東北三里有窣堵波。是毘摩羅詰
T51n2087_p0908b23(05)║(唐言無垢稱。舊曰淨名。然淨則無垢。名則是稱。義雖取同。名乃有異。舊曰維摩詰訛略也)
T51n2087_p0908b24(03)║故宅基趾。多有靈異。去此不遠有一神舍。
T51n2087_p0908b25(02)║其狀壘[專*瓦]。傳云積石。
T51n2087_p0908b26(10)║即無垢稱長者現疾說法之處。

照片中為無憂王所建的窣堵波和石柱。記得旁邊確有水池,但是因為不知原委,所以沒有拍照。

吠舍釐舍利塔遺跡圖二

從那爛陀寺我們坐汽車去Patna市,去那裡住宿一夜我便前往Vaishali。從Patna到Hajpur之後懂英文的人就極少,從Hajipur換了兩輛機動三輪車,滿車的人沒有懂英文的,這時沒有土丹師為我翻譯,車上的人只知道我要去Vaishali,所以如果你想去Vaishali最好在Hajipur或Patna租車,即使貴一些也是值得的(過了Hajpur據說便可能會有土匪)。此處視野較為寬闊,植物茂盛,景致非常不錯。

佛曾多次到Vaishali,佛世時此國採用“民主”的政治體制,連佛也告誡比丘要像Vaishali的人一樣和睦。《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0908a26(02)║從此東北度殑伽河。
T51n2087_p0908a27(10)║行百四五十里至吠舍釐國(舊曰毘舍離國。訛也。中印度境)
T51n2087_p0908a28(00)║吠舍釐國。周五千餘里。土地沃壤花果茂盛。
T51n2087_p0908a29(00)║菴沒羅果茂遮果。既多且貴。
T51n2087_p0908b01(06)║氣序和暢風俗淳質。好福重學邪正雜信。


Vaishali藏名是yangs pa can,西藏的傳統似乎把此處認作為佛轉第三輪處,但是奘譯和真諦法師所譯的《解深密經》中的說法處似乎不同。佛涅槃前最初是在Vaishali宣佈入滅的意圖。《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0908c01(00)║伽藍北三四里有窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0908c02(07)║是如來將往拘尸那國入般涅槃。人與非人隨從世尊。
T51n2087_p0908c03(02)║至此佇立。次西北不遠有窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0908c04(05)║是佛於此最後觀吠舍釐城。其南不遠有精舍。
T51n2087_p0908c05(03)║前建窣堵波。是菴沒羅女園持以施佛
T51n2087_p0908c06(00)║菴沒羅園側有窣堵波。是如來告涅槃處。
T51n2087_p0908c07(00)║佛昔在此告阿難曰。其得四神足者。
T51n2087_p0908c08(02)║能住壽一劫。如來今者當壽幾何。如是再三。
T51n2087_p0908c09(01)║阿難不對。天魔迷惑故也。
T51n2087_p0908c10(08)║阿難從坐而起林中宴默。時魔來請佛曰。如來在世教化已久。
T51n2087_p0908c11(00)║蒙濟流轉數如塵沙。寂滅之樂今其時矣。
T51n2087_p0908c12(00)║世尊以少土置爪上而告魔曰。地土多耶。
T51n2087_p0908c13(00)║爪土多耶。對曰。地土多也
T51n2087_p0908c14(00)║佛言。所度者如爪上土。未度者如大地土。
T51n2087_p0908c15(00)║卻後三月吾當涅槃。魔聞歡喜而退。
T51n2087_p0908c16(02)║阿難林中忽感異夢。來白佛言。
T51n2087_p0908c17(05)║我在林間夢見大樹。枝葉茂盛。蔭影蒙密。
T51n2087_p0908c18(06)║驚風忽起摧散無餘。將非世尊欲入寂滅。
T51n2087_p0908c19(06)║我心懷懼故來請問
T51n2087_p0908c20(00)║佛告阿難。吾先告汝。汝為魔蔽不時請留。
T51n2087_p0908c21(00)║魔王勸我早入涅槃。已許之期。
T51n2087_p0908c22(03)║斯夢是也

這裡也是第二次結集之處。《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0909b13(00)║城東南行十四五里至大窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0909b14(04)║是七百賢聖重結集處。佛涅槃後百一十年。
T51n2087_p0909b15(04)║吠舍釐城有諸苾芻。遠離佛法謬行戒律。
T51n2087_p0909b16(04)║時長老耶舍陀住憍薩羅國。
T51n2087_p0909b17(09)║長老三菩伽住秣兔羅國。長老釐波多住韓若國。
T51n2087_p0909b18(07)║長老沙羅住吠舍釐國。長老富闍蘇彌羅住娑羅梨弗國。
T51n2087_p0909b19(01)║諸大羅漢心得自在。持三藏得三明。
T51n2087_p0909b20(03)║有大名稱眾所知識。皆是尊者阿難弟子。
T51n2087_p0909b21(04)║時耶舍陀遣使告諸賢聖。皆可集吠舍釐城。
T51n2087_p0909b22(02)║猶少一人未滿七百。
T51n2087_p0909b23(10)║是時富闍蘇彌羅以天眼見諸大賢聖集議法事。運神足至法會。
T51n2087_p0909b24(01)║時三菩伽於大眾中。右袒長跪揚言曰。
T51n2087_p0909b25(02)║眾無譁。欽哉念哉。昔大聖法王善權寂滅。
T51n2087_p0909b26(03)║歲月雖淹言教尚在。吠舍釐城懈怠苾芻謬於戒律。
T51n2087_p0909b27(00)║有十事出違十力教。今諸賢者深明持犯。
T51n2087_p0909b28(00)║俱承大德阿難指誨。念報佛恩重宣聖旨。
T51n2087_p0909b29(00)║時諸大聖莫不悲感。即召集諸苾芻。
T51n2087_p0909c01(02)║依毘柰耶訶責制止。削除謬法宣明聖教

佛涅槃後舍利分作八份,吠舍釐王分得其中之一,建窣堵波供奉。《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0908b10(00)║舍利子證果東南有窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0908b11(06)║是吠舍釐王之所建也。佛涅槃後。此國先王分得舍利。
T51n2087_p0908b12(01)║式修崇建。印度記曰。此中舊有如來舍利一斛。
T51n2087_p0908b13(00)║無憂王開取九斗。唯留一斗。
T51n2087_p0908b14(05)║後有國王復欲開取方事興功尋則地震。遂不敢開。

照片中所顯示的便是這個舍利塔。1958年挖掘此塔時發現《西域記》的記載和考古證據相吻合,並且發現舍利,這些舍利據說存放在Patna。

那爛陀寺周圍的草坪

拍這張照片時我想照出東面依次排列的八座僧院,但是從中無法看到盡頭。

我在這個寮房時工作人員告訴我這是教授的房間――因為它有兩間房間。我在那爛陀寺的兩小時中聽到兩個人提到玄奘法師的名字。法顯、玄奘、和義淨三位法師的記載對研究印度的歷史非常重要,有一位印度的班智達對我說漢僧對印度文化的貢獻超過藏人。

僧寮之內

土丹次仁師站在僧寮口

有些僧院的結構比較複雜

這是庭院中的『下水道』

這個僧院殘留更少,但是可以看到庭院週圍的柱子。

在東面從南至北有8個僧院(monasteries 1,4,6,7,8,9,10,11)在玄奘法師的時代這些僧院高至四層,但是現在最多可見兩層,並且僧院外的漆也都退了。僧院的中間大多有庭院,有些庭院中有供臺或法師講經的法座,有些還有井。庭院四周是僧寮。這張照片可以代表這種佈局(左邊是井)。

Temple 12之上

西面的另一個廟堂(temple 12)

西面的另一個廟堂


王舍城中古跡非常多(如未生怨王及無憂王所建的塔、未生怨王囚禁父王頻毗娑羅處、為佛看病的醫生時縛迦(Jivaka)供養佛的住所),但是因為時間不允許,我們只得趕往那爛陀寺。佛本人曾到過此地,尊重舍利子在那爛陀寺附近出生――《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0924c14(15)║頻毘娑羅王迎佛東南行二十餘里至迦羅臂拏迦邑。中有窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0924c15(06)║無憂王之所建也。是尊者舍利子本生故里。井今尚在。
T51n2087_p0924c16(01)║傍有窣堵波。尊者於此寂滅。
T51n2087_p0924c17(06)║其中則有遺身舍利。

用印度人的話說,這裡是“那爛陀大學”的校址。《西域記》對這所“大學”是這樣描述的﹕

T51n2087_p0923b14(11)║從此北行三十餘里至那爛陀(唐言施無厭)僧伽藍。聞之耆舊曰。
T51n2087_p0923b15(05)║此伽藍南菴沒羅林中有池。其龍名那爛陀。傍建伽藍。
T51n2087_p0923b16(00)║因取為稱。從其實議。
T51n2087_p0923b17(08)║是如來在昔修菩薩行。為大國王建都此地。
T51n2087_p0923b18(07)║悲愍眾生好樂周給。時美其德號施無厭。
T51n2087_p0923b19(06)║由是伽藍因以為稱。其地本菴沒羅園。
T51n2087_p0923b20(08)║五百商人以十億金錢買以施佛。佛於此處三月說法。
T51n2087_p0923b21(03)║諸商人等亦證聖果。佛涅槃後未久。
T51n2087_p0923b22(06)║此國先王鑠迦羅阿逸多(唐言帝日)。敬重一乘遵崇三寶。
T51n2087_p0923b23(02)║式占福地建此伽藍。初興功也穿傷龍身。
T51n2087_p0923b24(02)║時有善占尼乾外道。見而記曰。斯勝地也。
T51n2087_p0923b25(03)║建立伽藍當必昌盛。
T51n2087_p0923b26(10)║為五印度之軌則逾千載而彌隆。後進學人易以成業。然多歐血。
T51n2087_p0923b27(01)║傷龍故也。其子佛陀鞠多王(唐言覺護)
T51n2087_p0923b28(04)║繼體承統聿遵勝業。次此之南又建伽藍。
T51n2087_p0923b29(04)║呾他揭多鞠多王(唐言如來)篤修前緒。
T51n2087_p0923c01(07)║次此之東又建伽藍。婆羅阿迭多(唐言幼日)王之嗣位也。
T51n2087_p0923c02(03)║次此東北又建伽藍。功成事畢福會稱慶。
T51n2087_p0923c03(03)║輸誠幽顯延請凡聖。其會也五印度僧。萬里雲集。
T51n2087_p0923c04(00)║眾坐已定二僧後至。引上第三重閣。
T51n2087_p0923c05(02)║或有問曰。王將設會先請凡聖。
T51n2087_p0923c06(06)║大德何方最後而至。曰我至那國也。和上嬰疹飯已方行。
T51n2087_p0923c07(00)║受王遠請故來赴會。問者驚骸。遽以白王。
T51n2087_p0923c08(00)║王心知聖也躬往問焉。
T51n2087_p0923c09(07)║遲上重閣莫知所去。王更深信捨國出家。
T51n2087_p0923c10(07)║出家既已位居僧末。心常怏怏懷不自安。
T51n2087_p0923c11(07)║我昔為王尊居最上。今者出家卑在眾末。
T51n2087_p0923c12(07)║尋往白僧自述情事。於是眾僧和合。
T51n2087_p0923c13(08)║令未受戒者以年齒為次。故此伽藍獨有斯制。
T51n2087_p0923c14(06)║其王之子代闍羅(唐言金剛)嗣位之後。信心貞固。
T51n2087_p0923c15(04)║復於此西建立伽藍。其後中印度王。
T51n2087_p0923c16(05)║此北復建大伽藍。於是周垣峻峙同為一門。
T51n2087_p0923c17(04)║既歷代君王繼世興建。窮諸剞劂誠壯觀也。帝曰。
T51n2087_p0923c18(00)║本大伽藍者。今置佛像。眾中日差四十僧。
T51n2087_p0923c19(00)║就此而食以報施主之恩。
T51n2087_p0923c20(07)║僧徒數千並俊才高學也。德重當時聲馳異域者。數百餘矣。
T51n2087_p0923c21(00)║戒行清白律儀淳粹。僧有嚴制眾咸貞素。
T51n2087_p0923c22(01)║印度諸國皆仰則焉。請益談玄竭日不足。
T51n2087_p0923c23(02)║夙夜警誡少長相成。其有不談三藏幽旨者。
T51n2087_p0923c24(01)║則形影自愧矣。故異域學人欲馳聲問。
T51n2087_p0923c25(02)║咸來稽疑方流雅譽。是以竊名而遊咸得禮重。
T51n2087_p0923c26(00)║殊方異域欲入談議門者。詰難多屈而還。
T51n2087_p0923c27(00)║學深今古乃得入焉。
T51n2087_p0923c28(08)║於是客遊後進詳論藝能。其退飛者固十七八矣。
T51n2087_p0923c29(05)║二三博物眾中次詰。莫不挫其銳頹其名。
T51n2087_p0924a01(05)║若其高才博物強識多能。明德哲人聯暉繼軌。
T51n2087_p0924a02(03)║至如護法護月振芳塵於遺教。
T51n2087_p0924a03(07)║德慧堅慧流雅譽於當時。光友之清論。勝友之高談。
T51n2087_p0924a04(03)║智月則風鑒明敏。戒賢乃至德幽邃。
T51n2087_p0924a05(06)║若此上人眾所知識。德隆先達學貫舊章。
T51n2087_p0924a06(06)║述作論釋各十數部。並盛流通見珍當世。

那爛陀寺的遺址中最主要的是西面的廟堂temple和東面的僧院monatery(僧院之東還有廟堂),這張照片中是西面的廟堂中最名者,可能是僧眾聚集念誦之處。這個廟堂很多人都已見過,但是不妨再貼上兩張。

另一個入口

七葉窟五。穿藍衣者是自願介紹山洞的當地居民。

四。如果不用閃光燈,洞里只能見到燭光。



《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0922b14(00)║竹林園西南行五六里南山之陰。
T51n2087_p0922b15(04)║大竹林中有大石室。是尊者摩訶迦葉。
T51n2087_p0922b16(04)║在此與九百九十大阿羅漢。如來涅槃後結集三藏。
T51n2087_p0922b17(00)║前有故基。
T51n2087_p0922b18(12)║未生怨王為集法藏諸大羅漢建此堂宇。初大迦葉宴坐山林。忽燭光明。
T51n2087_p0922b19(00)║又睹地震曰。是何祥變若此之異。
T51n2087_p0922b20(03)║以天眼觀見佛世尊於雙樹林間入般涅槃。
T51n2087_p0922b21(02)║尋命徒屬趣拘尸城。路逢梵志手執天花。
T51n2087_p0922b22(01)║迦葉問曰。汝從何來。知我大師今在何處。
T51n2087_p0922b23(01)║梵志對曰。我適從彼拘尸城來。
T51n2087_p0922b24(05)║見汝大師已入涅槃。天人大眾咸興供養。
T51n2087_p0922b25(05)║我所持花自彼得也。迦葉聞已謂其徒曰。
T51n2087_p0922b26(05)║慧日淪照世界闇冥。善導遐棄眾生顛墜。
T51n2087_p0922b27(05)║懈怠比丘更相賀曰。如來寂滅我曹安樂。
T51n2087_p0922b28(05)║若有所犯誰能訶制。迦葉聞已深更感傷。
T51n2087_p0922b29(06)║思集法藏據教治犯。遂至雙樹觀化禮敬。
T51n2087_p0922c01(06)║既而法王去世人天無導。諸大羅漢亦取滅度。
T51n2087_p0922c02(04)║時大迦葉作是思惟。承順佛教宜集法藏。
T51n2087_p0922c03(03)║於是登蘇迷盧山擊大揵稚。唱如是言。
T51n2087_p0922c04(03)║今王舍城將有法事。諸證果人宜時速集。
T51n2087_p0922c05(03)║揵稚聲中傳迦葉教。遍至三千大千世界。
T51n2087_p0922c06(03)║得神通者聞皆集會。是時迦葉告諸眾曰。
T51n2087_p0922c07(04)║如來寂滅世界空虛。當集法藏用報佛恩。
T51n2087_p0922c08(03)║今將集法務從簡靜。
T51n2087_p0922c09(10)║豈恃群居不成勝業其有具三明得六通。聞持不謬辯才無礙。
T51n2087_p0922c10(01)║如斯上人可應結集。自餘果學各歸其居。
T51n2087_p0922c11(00)║於是得九百九十人。除阿難在學地。
T51n2087_p0922c12(01)║大迦葉召而謂曰。汝未盡漏宜出聖眾。
T51n2087_p0922c13(02)║曰隨侍如來多歷年所。每有法議曾未棄遺。
T51n2087_p0922c14(01)║今將結集而見擯斥。法王寂滅失所依怙。
T51n2087_p0922c15(00)║迦葉告曰。勿懷憂惱。汝親侍佛誠復多聞。
T51n2087_p0922c16(00)║然愛惑未盡習結未斷。阿難辭屈而出。
T51n2087_p0922c17(01)║至空寂處欲取無學。勤求不證。
T51n2087_p0922c18(05)║既已疲怠便欲假寐。未及伏枕遂證羅漢。
T51n2087_p0922c19(04)║往結集所叩門白至。迦葉問曰。汝結盡耶。
T51n2087_p0922c20(03)║宜運神通非門而入。阿難承命從鑰隙入。
T51n2087_p0922c21(03)║禮僧已畢退而復坐。是時安居初十五日也
T51n2087_p0922c22(00)║於是迦葉揚言曰。念哉諦聽。
T51n2087_p0922c23(05)║阿難聞持如來稱讚。集素呾纜(舊曰修多羅訛也)藏。
T51n2087_p0922c24(04)║優波釐持律明究眾所知識。集毘奈耶(舊曰毘那耶訛也)藏。
T51n2087_p0922c25(00)║我迦葉波集阿毘達磨藏。
T51n2087_p0922c26(06)║兩三月盡集三藏訖。以大迦葉僧中上座。
T51n2087_p0922c27(06)║因而謂之上座部焉
T51n2087_p0922c28(00)║大迦葉波結集西北有窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0922c29(05)║是阿難受僧訶責。不預結集。至此宴坐證羅漢果。
T51n2087_p0923a01(02)║證果之後方乃預焉


這是七葉窟從外入內五張照片中的第一張。

《西域記》下面一段講未生怨王所建的舍利塔,因為沒有時間那個塔我們沒有去看。從竹林我們直接到第一次結集之處――七葉窟。這裡會說英文的人非常少,我們很辛運在竹林中碰到一位會說英文的當地的官員,他派人送我們去七葉窟。路上再次經過溫泉,然後向上爬山路。七葉窟巴利文是Sattapanni,梵文是Saptapar.na,當地稱之為Sattapanni,與巴利文相同(旅遊車的導遊居然說溫泉便是Sattapanni)。這張照片是過溫泉後路上見到的Pipphali洞,Dhammika法師說這裡是大迦葉(Kaa'syapa)坐禪處,不知是否《西域記》所說的這個山洞﹕

T51n2087_p0921c05(00)║溫泉西有卑缽羅石室。世尊在昔恒居其中。

竹園精舍二

巴利文中這個精舍稱作Veluvana『竹林』,有的典籍中也叫Venuvana。關於竹園精舍,《西域記》是這樣說的﹕

T51n2087_p0922a21(00)║山城北門行一里餘。至迦蘭陀竹園。
T51n2087_p0922a22(02)║今有精舍。石基[專*瓦]室。東闢其戶。
T51n2087_p0922a23(06)║如來在世多居此中。說法開化導凡拯俗。今作如來之身。
T51n2087_p0922a24(00)║初此城中有大長者迦蘭陀。
T51n2087_p0922a25(05)║時稱豪貴以大竹園施諸外道。及見如來聞法淨信。
T51n2087_p0922a26(01)║追昔竹園居彼異眾。今天人師無以館舍。
T51n2087_p0922a27(00)║時諸神鬼感其誠心。
T51n2087_p0922a28(07)║斥逐外道而告之曰。長者迦蘭陀當以竹園起佛精舍。
T51n2087_p0922a29(02)║汝宜速去得免危厄。外道憤恚含怒而去。
T51n2087_p0922b01(02)║長者於此建立精舍。功成事畢躬往請佛。
T51n2087_p0922b02(02)║如來是時遂受其施

關於布施竹林的故事,《四分律》和Dhammika都說施主是摩揭陀(Magadha,國都在王舍城)的國王頻毗娑羅(Bimbisara)﹕

T22n1428_p0798b10(00)║爾時摩竭國王瓶沙。復作是念。
T22n1428_p0798b11(04)║若使世尊將諸弟子入羅閱城。先至園中者。
T22n1428_p0798b12(02)║我當即以此園地施之立精舍。
T22n1428_p0798b13(06)║時羅閱城諸園中。迦蘭陀竹園最勝。時世尊。
T22n1428_p0798b14(06)║知摩竭王心中所念。即將大眾詣竹園已。王即下象。
T22n1428_p0798b15(01)║自疊象上褥。作四重敷地。前白佛言。
T22n1428_p0798b16(03)║願世尊坐。世尊即就座而坐。時瓶沙王。
T22n1428_p0798b17(04)║持金澡瓶水授如來令清淨。白佛言。
T22n1428_p0798b18(06)║今羅閱城諸園中。此竹園最勝。我今施如來。願慈愍故受。

這張照片攝於竹林門口附近,因為太暗竹子看不清楚。

靈靈鷲峰在王舍城附近,我們所坐的旅遊/朝聖車接著把我們開到王舍城。佛和諸弟子在這裡住了很多年,所以這裡聖跡非常多,並且也較為分散,如果要仔細看需要不少時間。只是附近有土匪出沒,所以去偏遠的地方要十分小心。我們的導遊只帶我們去看了一個耆那教的山洞和王舍城的溫泉,接著就說要開車去那爛陀寺,如果你也是隨這樣的團一起去,那麼我建議你遇到這種情形必須離團獨行,我本人便拒絕隨著他們一起走。關於王舍城為什麼叫王舍城,《西域記》有說明,此處不引。關於這裡的溫泉《西域記》是這麼說的﹕

T51n2087_p0921b23(00)║山城北門西有毘布羅山。聞之土俗曰。
T51n2087_p0921b24(01)║山西南崖陰昔有五百溫泉。今者數十而已。
T51n2087_p0921b25(01)║然猶有冷有暖。未盡溫也。
T51n2087_p0921b26(07)║其泉源發雪山之南無熱惱池。潛流至此。
T51n2087_p0921b27(07)║水甚清美味同本池。流經五百枝小熱地獄。
T51n2087_p0921b28(06)║火熱上炎致斯溫熱。泉流之口並皆彫石。
T51n2087_p0921b29(07)║或作師子白象之首。或作石筒懸流之道。下乃編石為池。
T51n2087_p0921c01(01)║諸方異域咸來此浴。浴者宿疾多差。
T51n2087_p0921c02(03)║溫泉左右諸窣堵波及精舍。基址鱗次。
T51n2087_p0921c03(05)║並是過去四佛坐及經行遺跡之所。
T51n2087_p0921c04(08)║此處既山水相帶仁智攸居。隱淪之士蓋亦多矣

現在的溫泉已變成“公共浴室”,聽人幾年前的情形比現在好。

我和土丹次仁師裡團後先去竹園精舍,拍了兩張照片。

這個石洞的標誌說不知玄奘法師見到的山洞不知是不是這個

從石臺仰望近處的山峰,上面有日本人所建的塔。

我們所去的下一站是王舍城,現名Rajgir。從菩提伽耶有專車去王舍城和那爛托寺,一天往返。路上第一站是G.rdhraku.ta『(靈)鷲峰』,是佛說《般若經》處。《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0921a21(11)║宮城東北行十四五里至姞栗陀羅矩吒山(唐言鷲峰亦謂鷲臺。舊曰耆闍崛山訛也)。
T51n2087_p0921a22(03)║接北山之陽。孤摽特起既棲鷲鳥。又類高臺。
T51n2087_p0921a23(01)║空翠相映。濃淡分色。如來御世垂五十年。
T51n2087_p0921a24(01)║多居此山廣說妙法。
T51n2087_p0921a25(09)║頻毘娑羅王為聞法故興發人徒。自山麓至峰岑。
T51n2087_p0921a26(04)║跨谷凌巖編石為階。廣十餘步。長五六里。
T51n2087_p0921a27(04)║中路有二小窣堵波。一謂下乘。即王至此徒行以進。
T51n2087_p0921a28(00)║一謂退凡。即簡凡人不令同往。
T51n2087_p0921a29(03)║其山頂則東西長南北狹。臨崖西埵有[專*瓦]精舍。
T51n2087_p0921b01(01)║高廣奇製東闢其戶。如來在昔多居說法。
T51n2087_p0921b02(01)║今作說法之像。量等如來之身
T51n2087_p0921b03(00)║精舍東有長石。如來經行所履也。
T51n2087_p0921b04(03)║傍有大石。高丈四五尺。周三十餘步。
T51n2087_p0921b05(06)║是提婆達多遙擲擊佛處也。其南崖下有窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0921b06(03)║在昔如來於此說法花經。
T51n2087_p0921b07(09)║精舍南山崖側有大石室。如來在昔於此入定
T51n2087_p0921b08(00)║佛石室西北石室。前有大磐石。
T51n2087_p0921b09(04)║阿難為魔怖處也。尊者阿難於此入定。
T51n2087_p0921b10(05)║魔王化作鷲鳥。於黑月夜分據其大石。
T51n2087_p0921b11(05)║奮翼驚鳴以怖尊者。尊者是時驚懼無措。
T51n2087_p0921b12(05)║如來鑒見伸手安慰。通過石壁摩阿難頂。
T51n2087_p0921b13(05)║以大慈言而告之曰。魔所變化宜無怖懼。
T51n2087_p0921b14(05)║阿難蒙慰身心安樂。石上鳥跡崖中通穴。
T51n2087_p0921b15(06)║歲月雖久于今尚存
T51n2087_p0921b16(00)║精舍側有數石室。
T51n2087_p0921b17(10)║舍利子等諸大羅漢於此入定。舍利子石室前有一大井。
T51n2087_p0921b18(04)║枯涸無水墟坎猶存
T51n2087_p0921b19(00)║精舍東北石澗中有大磐石。
T51n2087_p0921b20(05)║是如來曬袈裟之處。衣文明徹皎如彫刻。
T51n2087_p0921b21(05)║其傍石上有佛腳跡。輪文雖暗規摸可察。
T51n2087_p0921b22(05)║北山頂有窣堵波。是如來望摩揭陀城。於此七日說法

靈鷲山中的這個石臺是朝聖者常來的。

從河床觀望精舍所在的樹林

這裡的人說精舍之旁是尼連禪那河。這張照片是從河的中央拍的,此河已將近干枯。《西域記》﹕
T51n2087_p0917b25(00)║菩薩苦行卑缽羅樹側有窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0917b26(04)║是阿若憍陳如等五人住處。初太子之捨家也。
T51n2087_p0917b27(03)║彷徨山澤棲息林泉。
T51n2087_p0917b28(11)║時淨飯王乃命五人隨瞻侍焉。太子既修苦行。憍陳如等亦即勤求。
T51n2087_p0917b29(02)║憍陳如等住處東南有窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0917c01(07)║菩薩入尼連禪那河沐浴之處。T51n2087_p0917c02(11)║河側不遠菩薩於此受食乳糜。

現在的精舍中也有『佛羸瘦之像』。

從菩提樹垣我們步行去菩薩六年苦行處。我層聽說南傳佛教說六年苦行處在一個山洞中,Dhammika法師確實這麼說,但是他的依據是玄奘法師,並說這個地方是Pragbodhi『前正覺』山。關於前正覺山《西域記》是這麼說﹕

T51n2087_p0915a17(05)║伽耶迦葉波事火東渡大河至缽羅笈菩提山(唐言前正覺山。
T51n2087_p0915a18(00)║如來將證正覺。先登此山。故云前正覺也)。如來勤求六歲未成正覺。
T51n2087_p0915a19(00)║後捨苦行示受乳糜。
T51n2087_p0915a20(07)║行自東北遊目此山。有懷幽寂欲證正覺。自東北岡。
T51n2087_p0915a21(02)║登以至頂。地既震動山又傾搖。
T51n2087_p0915a22(06)║山神惶懼告菩薩曰。此山者非成正覺之福地也。
T51n2087_p0915a23(03)║若止於此入金剛定。地當震陷山亦傾覆。
T51n2087_p0915a24(03)║菩薩下自西南山半崖中。背巖面澗有大石室。
T51n2087_p0915a25(00)║菩薩即之加趺坐焉。地又震動山復傾搖。
T51n2087_p0915a26(00)║時淨居天空中唱曰。此非如來成正覺處。
T51n2087_p0915a27(00)║自此西南十四五里。
T51n2087_p0915a28(08)║去苦行處不遠有卑缽羅樹。下有金剛座。
T51n2087_p0915a29(08)║去來諸佛咸於此座而成正覺。願當就彼。菩薩方起。室中龍曰。
T51n2087_p0915b01(00)║斯室清勝可以證聖。唯願慈悲勿有遺棄。
T51n2087_p0915b02(00)║菩薩既知非取證所。
T51n2087_p0915b03(07)║為遂龍意留影而去(影在昔日。賢愚咸睹。洎於今時。或有得見)。諸天前導往菩提樹。
T51n2087_p0915b04(00)║逮乎無憂王之興也。菩薩登山。上下之跡。
T51n2087_p0915b05(00)║皆樹旌表建窣堵波。度量雖殊靈應莫異。
T51n2087_p0915b06(00)║或天花雨空中。或光照幽谷。
T51n2087_p0915b07(04)║每歲罷安居日。異方法俗登修供養。信宿乃還。

按照這段描述,前正覺山不是六年苦行處。我跟同行的土丹次仁法師所去的地方似乎符合玄奘的說法。在路上法師用六年苦行的藏文(lo drug dka' ba spyad sa)問路,印度人好象已習慣於這個地方的藏文名字。《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0917b18(00)║目支鄰陀龍池東林中精舍有佛羸瘦之像。
T51n2087_p0917b19(00)║其側有經行之所。長七十餘步。
T51n2087_p0917b20(04)║南北各有卑缽羅樹。故今土俗。
T51n2087_p0917b21(07)║諸有嬰疾香油塗像。多蒙除差。是菩薩修苦行處。
T51n2087_p0917b22(04)║如來為伏外道。又受魔請。於是苦行六年。
T51n2087_p0917b23(04)║日食一麻一麥。形容憔悴膚體羸瘠。
T51n2087_p0917b24(06)║經行往來攀樹後起

照片中是現今六年苦行處的精舍。

T51n2087_p0917b02(02)║……樹垣之內聖跡鱗次。
T51n2087_p0917b03(02)║差難遍舉。菩提樹垣外……

菩提樹垣之內有許多Caitya『制多』,很多現在已不知原委。這張照片是樹垣中的Buddhapada Temple『佛足廟』,雖然從照片中看不清楚,但是廟門口的圓石上刻有佛的足印。

2/18/2007


略過幾段之後,《西域記》說﹕

T51n2087_p0917a26(09)║……菩提樹垣東南隅尼拘律樹側窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0917a27(00)║傍有精舍。中作佛坐像。昔如來初證佛果。
T51n2087_p0917a28(00)║大梵天王於此勸請轉妙法輪。

這張照片是菩提樹垣的西南角,所以梵天請轉法輪處是在這裡。

T51n2087_p0917a29(04)║菩提樹垣內四隅皆有大窣堵波。
T51n2087_p0917b01(07)║在昔如來受吉祥草已趣菩提樹。先歷四隅大地震動。
T51n2087_p0917b02(02)║至金剛座方得安靜。樹垣之內聖跡鱗次。

《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0916c11(00)║菩提樹南不遠。有窣堵波。高百餘尺。
T51n2087_p0916c12(02)║無憂王之所建也。

圖中的圓圈是無憂王所建的窣堵波(stuupa,即塔)的遺址。

《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0916c06(00)║菩提樹西不遠。大精舍中有鋀石佛像。
T51n2087_p0916c07(01)║飾以奇珍東面而立。前有青石奇文異采。
T51n2087_p0916c08(01)║是昔如來初成正覺。梵王起七寶堂。
T51n2087_p0916c09(03)║帝釋建七寶座。佛於其上七日思惟。
T51n2087_p0916c10(05)║放異光明照菩提樹。去聖悠遠寶變為石

這張照片中的小石室可能是這段文字所說的佛七日思維處,石室的名字叫做Ratanaghara『寶室』,Dhammika法師說這是佛成道後第四個星期思維阿毘達磨處。

然而上面是現在一般人的說法,據Dhammika法師說,這張照片中的圓形的石臺才是玄奘法師所見到的佛成道後第一七天中瞻視菩提樹處。我去菩提伽耶時有寧瑪法會,圖中大多是參加法會者。

T51n2087_p0916c03(00)║經行基北道右盤石上大精舍中有佛像。
T51n2087_p0916c04(01)║舉目上望。昔者如來於此七日觀菩提樹。
T51n2087_p0916c05(01)║目不暫捨。為報樹恩故此瞻望

此處稱作Animisa Caitya,照片中前一座塔便是,後一座是大菩提殿Mahabodhi Temple上的大佛塔。
《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0916b21(04)║如來以印度吠舍佉月後半八日成等正覺。
T51n2087_p0916b22(03)║當此三月八日也。
T51n2087_p0916b23(13)║上座部則吠舍佉月後半十五日成等正覺。當此三月十五日也。
T51n2087_p0916b24(04)║是時如來年三十矣。或曰年三十五矣
T51n2087_p0916b25(00)║菩提樹北有佛經行之處。
T51n2087_p0916b26(07)║如來成正覺已不起于座。七日寂定。其起也至菩提樹北。
T51n2087_p0916b27(01)║七日經行東西往來。
T51n2087_p0916b28(09)║行十餘步異華隨跡十有八文。後人於此壘[專*瓦]為基。高餘三尺。
T51n2087_p0916b29(00)║聞諸先志曰。
T51n2087_p0916c01(10)║此聖跡基表人命之脩短也。先發誠願後乃度量。
T51n2087_p0916c02(07)║隨壽脩短數有增減

此處是Ratanacankama Caitya,據Dhammika法師說佛成道後第三個星期在此經行。
《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0916a16(07)║……皆入檀捨。精舍既成。
T51n2087_p0916a17(11)║招募工人欲圖如來初成佛像。曠以歲月無人應召。
T51n2087_p0916a18(07)║久之有婆羅門來告眾曰。我善圖寫如來妙相。眾曰。
T51n2087_p0916a19(03)║今將造像。夫何所須。曰香泥耳。宜置精舍之中。
T51n2087_p0916a20(00)║并一燈照。我入已堅閉其戶。
T51n2087_p0916a21(06)║六月後乃可開門。時諸僧眾皆如其命。
T51n2087_p0916a22(06)║尚餘四日未滿六月。眾咸駭異開以觀之。
T51n2087_p0916a23(07)║見精舍內佛像儼然結加趺坐。右足居上。左手斂右手垂。
T51n2087_p0916a24(02)║東面而坐。肅然如在。座高四尺二寸。
T51n2087_p0916a25(05)║廣丈二尺五寸。像高丈一尺五寸。兩膝相去八尺八寸。
T51n2087_p0916a26(01)║兩肩六尺二寸。相好具足慈顏若真。
T51n2087_p0916a27(04)║唯右乳上圖瑩未周。既不見人方驗神鑒。
T51n2087_p0916a28(04)║眾咸悲歎慇懃請知。有一沙門宿心淳質。
T51n2087_p0916a29(04)║乃感夢見往婆羅門而告曰。我是慈氏菩薩。
T51n2087_p0916b01(03)║恐工人之思不測聖容。故我躬來圖寫佛像。
T51n2087_p0916b02(02)║垂右手者。昔如來之將證佛果。
T51n2087_p0916b03(06)║天魔來嬈地神告至。其一先出助佛降魔。如來告曰。
T51n2087_p0916b04(02)║汝勿憂怖。吾以忍力降彼必矣。魔王曰。
T51n2087_p0916b05(03)║誰為明證。如來乃垂手指地言。此有證。
T51n2087_p0916b06(04)║是時第二地神踊出作證。故今像手倣昔下垂。
T51n2087_p0916b07(02)║眾知靈鑒莫不悲感。於是乳上未周填廁眾寶。
T51n2087_p0916b08(00)║珠纓寶冠奇珍交飾。
T51n2087_p0916b09(08)║設賞迦王伐菩提樹已欲毀此像。既睹慈顏心不安忍。
T51n2087_p0916b10(02)║迴駕將返命宰臣曰。
T51n2087_p0916b11(10)║宜除此佛像置大自在天形。宰臣受旨懼而歎曰。
T51n2087_p0916b12(07)║毀佛像則歷劫招殃。違王命乃喪身滅族。
T51n2087_p0916b13(07)║進退若此何所宜行。乃召信心以為役使。
T51n2087_p0916b14(06)║遂於像前橫壘[專*瓦]壁。心慚冥闇。又置明燈[專*瓦]壁之前。
T51n2087_p0916b15(02)║畫自在天功成報命。王聞心懼。
T51n2087_p0916b16(06)║舉身生皰肌膚攫裂。居未久之便喪沒矣。
T51n2087_p0916b17(06)║宰臣馳返毀除障壁。時經多日燈猶不滅。像今尚在。
T51n2087_p0916b18(01)║神工不虧。既處奧室燈炬相繼。
T51n2087_p0916b19(04)║欲睹慈顏莫由審察。必於晨朝持大明鏡。
T51n2087_p0916b20(04)║引光內照乃睹靈相。夫有見者自增悲感。

玄奘法師所說的精舍中的佛像現在已不知去向。現在所供奉的佛像出自公元後10世紀後期,Dhammika法師說殿中佛像所在之處是佛成道處。


《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0915c26(00)║菩提樹東有精舍。高百六七十尺。
T51n2087_p0915c27(04)║下基面廣二十餘步。壘以青[專*瓦]塗以石灰。
T51n2087_p0915c28(04)║層龕皆有金像。四壁鏤作奇製。或連珠形。或天仙像。
T51n2087_p0915c29(00)║上置金銅阿摩落迦果(亦謂寶瓶又稱寶臺)。
T51n2087_p0916a01(03)║東面接為重閣。檐宇特起三層。
T51n2087_p0916a02(07)║榱柱棟梁戶扉寮牖。金銀彫鏤以飾之。珠玉廁錯以填之。
T51n2087_p0916a03(01)║奧室邃宇洞戶三重。外門左右各有龕室。
T51n2087_p0916a04(02)║左則觀自在菩薩像。右則慈氏菩薩像。白銀鑄成。
T51n2087_p0916a05(00)║高十餘尺。精舍故地。無憂王先建小精舍。
T51n2087_p0916a06(01)║後有婆羅門更廣建焉。
T51n2087_p0916a07(08)║初有婆羅門不信佛法。事大自在天。傳聞天神在雪山中。
T51n2087_p0916a08(02)║遂與其弟往求願焉。天曰。凡諸願求有福方果。
T51n2087_p0916a09(00)║非汝所祈。非我能遂。婆羅門曰。
T51n2087_p0916a10(03)║修何福可以遂心。天曰。欲植善種求勝福田。
T51n2087_p0916a11(01)║菩提樹者證佛果處也。宜時速反往菩提樹。
T51n2087_p0916a12(00)║建大精舍穿大水池。
T51n2087_p0916a13(07)║興諸供養所願當遂。婆羅門受天命。發大信心相率而返。
T51n2087_p0916a14(01)║兄建精舍弟鑿水池。
T51n2087_p0916a15(09)║於是廣修供養勤求心願。後皆果遂。為王大臣。
T51n2087_p0916a16(07)║凡得祿賞皆入檀捨。

這裡所說的精舍可能是現在所見到佛塔及底下的佛殿,即Mahabodhi Temple『大菩提寺/殿』。佛塔和底部外面的裝飾可能從上面的照片中看到。但是現在的菩提樹在佛塔的北部,所以這裡還有一些疑問。這張照片是Mahabodhi Temple的正面,正門兩側確有龕室,但是現在兩尊佛像不是玄奘法師所見到的,然是在近代挖掘舊址時找到的。

《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0915c06(03)║如來寂滅之後。無憂王之初嗣位也。
T51n2087_p0915c07(05)║信受邪道毀佛遺跡。興發兵徒躬臨剪伐。
T51n2087_p0915c08(06)║根莖枝葉分寸斬截。次西數十步而積聚焉。
T51n2087_p0915c09(06)║令事火婆羅門燒以祠天。煙焰未靜忽生兩樹。
T51n2087_p0915c10(04)║猛火之中茂葉含翠。因而謂之灰菩提樹。
T51n2087_p0915c11(04)║無憂王睹異悔過。以香乳溉餘根。
T51n2087_p0915c12(06)║洎乎將旦樹生如本。王見靈怪重深欣慶。
T51n2087_p0915c13(06)║躬修供養樂以忘歸。王妃素信外道。密遣使人。
T51n2087_p0915c14(04)║夜分之後重伐其樹。無憂王旦將禮敬。
T51n2087_p0915c15(05)║唯見蘗株深增悲慨。至誠祈請香乳溉灌。不日還生。
T51n2087_p0915c16(01)║王深敬異。壘石周垣。其高十餘尺。今猶見在。

照片中右側是佛塔的底部,左邊是古老的桅杆。

T51n2087_p0915c17(00)║近設賞迦王者信受外道。
T51n2087_p0915c18(05)║毀嫉佛法壞僧伽藍。伐菩提樹。掘至泉水不盡根柢。
T51n2087_p0915c19(00)║乃縱火焚燒。以甘蔗汁沃之。
T51n2087_p0915c20(04)║欲其燋爛絕滅遺萌。數月後摩揭陀國補剌拏伐摩王
T51n2087_p0915c21(00)║(唐言滿胄)。無憂王之末孫也。聞而歎曰。
T51n2087_p0915c22(04)║慧日已隱唯餘佛樹。今復摧殘生靈何睹。
T51n2087_p0915c23(04)║舉身投地哀感動物。以數千牛搆乳而溉。經夜樹生。
T51n2087_p0915c24(00)║其高丈餘。恐後剪伐周峙石垣。
T51n2087_p0915c25(04)║高二丈四尺。故今菩提樹隱於石壁出一丈餘

這裡所說的石壁和今日所見的不一樣。


《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0915b27(00)║金剛座上菩提樹者。即畢缽羅之樹也。
T51n2087_p0915b28(02)║昔佛在世高數百尺。屢經殘伐。猶高四五丈。
T51n2087_p0915b29(01)║佛坐其下成等正覺。因而謂之菩提樹焉。
T51n2087_p0915c01(00)║莖幹黃白枝葉青翠。冬夏不凋光鮮無變。
T51n2087_p0915c02(00)║每至如來涅槃之日。
T51n2087_p0915c03(07)║葉皆凋落頃之復故。是日也諸國君王異方法俗。
T51n2087_p0915c04(05)║數千萬眾不召而集。香水香乳以溉以洗。
T51n2087_p0915c05(04)║於是奏音樂列香花。燈炬繼日競修供養。

上面的照片中金剛座的左側為菩提樹。這張是透過菩提樹看佛塔。現在的菩提樹植於十九世紀,它是原先的菩提樹的後裔。據Dhammika法師說,原來的菩提樹在現在這顆菩提樹的東面。最古的時候沒有佛塔,所以朝聖者主要是供奉菩提樹和金剛座。

《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0915b15(00)║菩提樹垣正中有金剛座。
T51n2087_p0915b16(06)║昔賢劫初成與大地俱起。據三千大千世界中。
T51n2087_p0915b17(04)║下極金輪上侵地際。金剛所成。周百餘步。
T51n2087_p0915b18(05)║賢劫千佛坐之而入金剛定。故曰金剛座焉。證聖道所。
T51n2087_p0915b19(00)║亦曰道場。大地震動獨無傾搖。
T51n2087_p0915b20(04)║是故如來將證正覺也。歷此四隅地皆傾動。
T51n2087_p0915b21(02)║後至此處安靜不傾。自入末劫正法浸微。
T51n2087_p0915b22(02)║沙土彌覆無復得見。佛涅槃後。
T51n2087_p0915b23(06)║諸國君王傳聞佛說金剛座量。遂以兩軀觀自在菩薩像。
T51n2087_p0915b24(00)║南北標界東面而坐。聞諸耆舊曰。
T51n2087_p0915b25(03)║此菩薩像身沒不見佛法當盡。
T51n2087_p0915b26(08)║今南隅菩薩沒過胸臆矣

現在所能見到的金剛座和菩提樹緊靠佛塔的北面。在這張照片中透過桅杆可以看到金剛座,Dhammika法師說這是菩提伽耶最古老的物品,但是他說更早的金剛座是在塔下殿內的佛龕底下發現的。今日的聖跡所在之處都已凹陷,所以最外面的旋繞之處高於金剛座和佛塔所在之處的地面。

第二站是菩提伽耶佛,佛在世時這個地方稱作Uruvela,後代佛弟子稱之為金剛座(Vajraasana或Bodhima.n.da),藏人仍然這麼稱(rdo rje gdan)。《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0915b08(02)║前正覺山西南行十四五里至菩提樹。
T51n2087_p0915b09(03)║周垣壘[專*瓦]崇峻險固。東西長南北狹。周五百餘步。
T51n2087_p0915b10(01)║奇樹名花連陰接影。細沙異草彌漫綠被。
T51n2087_p0915b11(01)║正門東闢對尼連禪河。南門接大花池。
T51n2087_p0915b12(02)║西阨險固。北門通大伽藍。壖垣內地。聖跡相鄰。
T51n2087_p0915b13(00)║或窣堵波。或復精舍。
T51n2087_p0915b14(09)║並贍部洲諸國君王大臣豪族。欽承遺教建以記焉

現在菩提樹和其它聖跡大多在一處,其面積不大,四周有旋繞處,其內可能對應於玄奘法師所說的菩提樹垣。Dharmika法師在Middle Land, Middle Way一書中略為介紹了菩提伽耶的歷史,但是此處無法重複。在印度還能見到介紹菩提伽耶和鹿野苑的專書。目前在大菩提寺中最為壯觀的是佛塔,下面有佛殿,稱作Mahabodhi Temple『大菩提寺』。很多人恐怕都見過佛塔的照片,但是我不妨再貼上一張。其中的法師是與我同行的Thubten Tsering『土丹次仁』師,還有他所碰到的熟人。

伽耶山/象頭山二

我到的第一站是Gaya『伽耶』,這是離Bodhgaya『菩提伽耶』最近的城市,從這裡作機動三輪車半小時可到菩提伽耶。佛初轉法輪後在鹿野苑度過第一個夏天,然後便來伽耶,並在這裡度化三迦葉。《西域記》﹕

T51n2087_p0915a03(00)║戒賢伽藍西南行四五十里。
T51n2087_p0915a04(05)║渡尼連禪河至伽耶城。甚險固少居人。
T51n2087_p0915a05(05)║唯婆羅門有千餘家。大仙人祚胤也。
T51n2087_p0915a06(07)║王所不臣眾咸宗敬。城北三十餘里有清泉。
T51n2087_p0915a07(06)║印度相傳謂之聖水。凡有飲濯罪垢消除
T51n2087_p0915a08(00)║城西南五六里至伽耶山。
T51n2087_p0915a09(07)║溪谷杳冥峰巖危險。印度國俗稱曰靈山。
T51n2087_p0915a10(07)║自昔君王馭宇承統。化洽遠人德隆前代。
T51n2087_p0915a11(06)║莫不登封而告成功。山頂上有石窣堵波。高百餘尺。
T51n2087_p0915a12(02)║無憂王之所建也。靈鑒潛被神光時燭。
T51n2087_p0915a13(03)║昔如來於此演說寶雲等經
T51n2087_p0915a14(00)║伽耶山東南有窣堵波。迦葉波本生邑也。
T51n2087_p0915a15(01)║其南有二窣堵波。則伽耶迦葉波捺地迦葉波
T51n2087_p0915a16(00)║(舊曰那提迦葉訛也。洎諸迦葉例無波字略也)事火之處。

這兩張照片是這裡所說的伽耶山,根據覺音尊者(公元後5世紀)的解釋,在他所處的時代此山名叫(巴利文)Gayasisa(梵﹕Gayaa'siir.sa)『伽耶頂』,但是原來的名字是Gajasisa(梵﹕Gaja'siir.sa)『象頂山』。Gaja變成了Gaya,Gaya伽耶城是依山而得名。古譯《佛說象頭精舍經》(大正藏466經)還保留著原來的名字,但是漢文其它兩譯(大正藏465及467經)和藏譯則用《伽耶山頂經》的經名。這部經自然是佛在此處所說。《菩提道次第廣論》(及《修次初篇》)中還引用了此經﹕

伽耶經雲﹕「菩提是以正行而為堅實,諸大菩薩之所能得,非以邪行而為堅實諸人所有。」(尊譯《廣論》245頁)
在1月末的時候我去菩提伽雅等朝聖,現在把一些照片上載上網。在Sarnath的時候幾乎可用照片給《大唐西域記》作圖解,但是這次不能做得這麼詳細,主要原因有兩個﹕第一這次朝聖時間很匆忙――從出發到回家只有三天時間,許多覺得較為次要的地方(如博物館和現代新建的寺院)只能略過,並且也沒有時間預先閱讀《西域記》的相關章節﹔其次玄奘法師所記載的處所中現在能找到只是很小的一般部分。不過比較幸運的是我帶著非常好的介紹聖跡的書。我以前在漢文中還沒有見過“印度朝聖指南” 一類的書,所以我所推薦以下這一本﹕

Dharmika, S. 1992. Middle Land, Middle Way: A Pilgrim's Guide to Buddha's India. Kandy, Sri Lanka: Buddhist Publication Society.

這本書的作者是在南傳佛教出家的澳大利亞僧人,此人對巴利文的經典非常熟悉,另外他所使用的現代考古學家發掘印度佛教古跡的資料和古代朝聖者的記載等也很有價值,總之此書作者兼俱才能和全面性非常難得。如果要找這本書的不足之處――從作者本人的觀點來看,下面這些並非不足之處――第一是大乘的說法幾乎都不包括(例如,介紹靈鷲峰時沒有提佛在此處說《般若經》),第二是在“怎樣去”這方面說得非常少。藏文中根敦群培的印度朝聖指南據說比較好,說不定能補第一個不足﹔至於第二個不足則要使用Lonely Planet的India Travel Survival Kit之類的不斷更新的外文印度旅行指南(有詳細的食宿選擇及交通方法)。

12/20/2006

I have stayed in Visakhapatnam for a little less than a month and I am going to leave tomorrow. I was first exposed to Sastry's first-year textbook when he taught it in Wisconsin in the Spring of 2005. I sat in some of the classes. At that point I was doing my fourth-year Sanskrit, but by the end of the semester (second-semester Sanskrit) some of the students in the class already had a better grasp of the grammar than I did. I thought what I witnessed was an unusual event.

I think there are a number of factors that contributed to the success. One is the thoroughness of Sastry's textbook. It is firmly based on the Paninian system—in its grammatical categories, in the rules (he would sometimes cite a passage from Panini to show that the rule that he has given is just a restatement of a Paninian sutra in plain English), in the derivation of the forms and so on. Second is the sense of mastery that he is able to convey to students. He told me that when students see that an Indian teacher can do it, they would feel that they can do it as well. Third, I think the success of that particular class has to do with the quality of the students as well.

What I have covered in a little less than a month here is what is meant to be the content for the first semester (less than 500 pages), and there is much more in the second semester. It is still a mystery to me how he managed to cover so much in one year in a regular university course. He tries to convince me that Sanskrit is an easy language since everything is explained. The different sequence in which he presents the materials makes interesting comparason with the first-year textbook that I was taught. At one point we also discussed the possibility that his method of teaching Sanskrit might be reletively painless.

One salient feature of Sastry's teaching method is that it is above all memory based. He emphasizes that all the derivations and explanations are just an aid to memorization and that memrorization alone is learning. Memory of the paradigms should become one's second nature—one should be able to say them very fast without even resorting to the rational/thinking process.With such firm memory, he says, the text that one reads breaks into pieces; one also becomes unconcious of the words and only takes cognizance of the sentences or just the paragraph. The way to get to that point is to recite the paradigms hundreds of times. One time I didn't recite one paradigm well, he asks me to go back and do it fifty times. Of course I didn't even come close to reciting paradigms thoughtlessly, but every once a while he reminds me when I obviously don't do well. He would say just to leave it now and come back and do it tomorrow.

He also says when one is learning grammar, one should repeat everyday everything one has learned previously. He gives the metophor that the larger a document is, the longer it takes to save. And even after one has learned the grammar one has to do daily review for one year (the other time he says six month) before one comes to the point that one never forgets them for the rest of one's life.

I also asked how long would it take for him to teach me Panini's _Astadhyayi_, he says if he teaches it the text has to be memorized, and it will take three years.

12/06/2006

In many of the previous posts what you find is a pictorial commentary on the descriptions of the town of Sarnath that Xuang Zhuang left in his _A Record of the Regions to the West of the Great Tang Dynasty_ after his trip to India in the seventh century. There are also a few pictures of the procession of Buddha's relic on elephant! There is also a picture of the river Ganga. I have intentionally used Chinese to write, but later I learned that my blog was blocked in China. And now I heard it is visible again, so in the future you might find more pictures of the Buddhist sites in India with Chinese commentary.

I left the States in mid-August, and after spending two months with my parents in Shanghai, I made my first trip to India on Oct. 27. I have adapted to the new environment quite well, and I find people to be very friendly, and I have made some new friends, some of whom have been especially helpful. The first month was spent in Sarnath near Varanasi, and I was able to attend a Tibetan class on the "Perception" chapter of Dharmakirti's Pramanavarttika. I also arranged some Sanskrit classes as well.

I then came to the town of Visakhapatnam to review Sanskrit grammar with my teacher Sastry. Instead of reviewing, I should say I am learning the grammar/language again following his book. He told me that I am supposed to learn the grammar/paradigms in a way that I will never forget for the rest of my life. My idea of memorization is to be able to repeat something without looking at the book, but his is that when one says the paradigm no thinking should be involved, and one must recite very fluently. So this will go on for about a month ...

11/13/2006


前兩天去婆羅[病-丙+尼]/ Varanasi/瓦拉那西』。那個地方非常擁擠,我只貼上恆河的照片一張。

繞鎮